Here on some things to keep in mind when choosing a bow or arrows.

Don't expect the Average Pro Shop to know this stuff

 

Visit the forum to ask more direct questions pertaining to equipment set up and tuning of your equipment.

 

                             


                    FLIGHT TUNING

To begin flight tuning you will first need a large enough backstop to make a cross that is 10" in size.
With a level, make a horizontal line through the center and then another vertical line through the center of the horizontal line.
Make the line large enough to be visible from 30 yards but not overly large.
Start at  10 yards from the target.

Aiming at the horizontal line, adjust the site so that you are hitting the line.

Now move back to 15 yards. (50# and under)
Using the same pin , shoot at the horizontal line.
Where is the arrow?
If it is high then adjust the rest down 1/32" at a time until the arrow hits the line again.

Now move back to 20 and shoot again using the same pin that you used at 10 yards (50# and over)
Adjust in the same manner as you did at 10 yards.


Now you are ready for vertical tuning.
Moving back up to 10 yards aim at the vertical line.
and adjust the sight to hit that line.
Move back to 20 yards and shoot that same line.

If you are left , move the rest to the right.
If you are right then move the rest to the left.

Move back to 30 and again shoot the vertical line.
Make adjustments as were done at 20.

You are now rough flight tuned.
This tune may be right on for your broadhead but you must finish with a broadhead to know for sure.
Any head in the passing heads here at the archersedge can be used to flight tune.

Repeat the horizontal and vertical line shots at 20 and 30 yards respectively.
Adjust the rest as necessary to make the arrow hit the lines.

A broadhead is a great fine tuning tool and will allow those with less than perfect form to better flight tune their set ups because of the exaggeration that the broadhead will cause when tune defects exist.


Before you begin shooting, you will need to check your broadhead equipped arrows.
After installing your broadheads, make sure they are perfectly straight on the shaft.
This can be done by spinning the arrow on a flat counter while checking for any broadhead wobble.
You can also use a commercially made spin check tool.

Below is a graph that explains flaw and correction methods

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Momentum vs. Kinetic Energy


Now there are a couple of terms I am sure we have all heard over the years, I have as I am sure
you all have done research or clicked on links on websites or your favorite forum and read all the
data and input by Professors and self proclaimed bow experts. I am also equally sure you have
seen this picture on many sites.
Now if you look very very closely
what the author of this site is
trying to prove is that more weight
equals more momentum and
that equals better and more
penetration. Correct???????

Not exactly ! ! !  if you really look closely at this picture you will see that the 525 grn. arrow only
penetrates about 1/2 inch more than the 375 grn. arrow.
Now what would it take to make a 525 grain arrow? Anyone?????
Well for starters you would have to have a very heavy grain per inch arrow, but that still wouldn't
get you there, second you would need a heavy tip or broadhead such as a 125 grain or 150 grain.
Then you still will be off by at least 50 grains so you would have to hit your local pro shop and buy
arrow weights to bring it up. Sounds simple huh? Well with the heavier tip you bring your Front Of
Center way out of balance, thus you need the weights in the rear of the arrow to bring that back to
the 10-12% needed for proper flight. So you would have to measure-add weight-measure-add
weight etc. Until you got it right otherwise your arrow would nose dive at 20 -30 yards. So not to
mention the sheer amount of man hours , driving time and the MONEY $$$ you would spend to get
this 525 grain monster just to achieve 1/2 inch of penetration,,does that seem like a sound
investment for your hunting equipment? For me it would be alot more hassle than help, after many
hours of shooting different weights of arrows it is my conclusion that unless you have more money
and time than sense if you stay in the 5.2 to 5.6 grains of arrow weight per pound of draw weight
and use a tip that will enhance your front of center percentage you will save time and money and
headache.

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Calculating required energy

 

Ashby's threshold is 14.83 for cape Buffalo so I am assuming we can go 7.40 for our game animals in the U.S.

I am basing this on Africa's requirement of 90# K.E. for the big five (which Ashby helped to establish) and our stated minimum of 45# for North America game in the lower 48.

To find your set ups momentum use the equation below

Arrow weight  X  2.2  X Arrow speed - divided by - 1543.2 divided by 10

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Calculating Draw length

 

A super simple method that Fred Bear offered up when asked how to correctly measure for draw length.

There are other ways but this has never failed me.

When you are not sure use this method and I will assure you that it will do you proud. 

Easy Too! 

As you can see my son is ticklish and 24 1/2" 

There are ways that this can be done wrong.

First of all , don't reach forward and that is to say , don't stretch.

stand straight and simply bring your hands out in front of you.

Also...head up and straight with the tape touching the windpipe.

If you are unsure...stand with your back against a wall so that your head and spine are in line.

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